Saturday, 18 December 2010

2010 Newsletter

Ding dong! 2010 is almost through.

In my last year's newsletter, I described 2009 as the “quickest” year of my life. If we are going to start labelling here, then 2010 will definitely have to settle for the “most exciting” year.

Let me make a disclaimer. 2010 may not have featured the dramatic changes that used to accompany my life in the past. I have not obtained an academic title, changed jobs or moved to another country. I have not even gone as far as moving house and am still admiring the amazing City skyline from the flat I have been renting in Bermondsey, London, for almost two years.

Neither has my life seen the major developments experienced by many of my friends. I have not purchased a property, got married or given birth to a child. I do not keep a pet in the house or drive my own car. As a matter of fact, I am not even at the point of being able to drive at all. May I ask you all please to keep this embarrassing fact to yourselves.

And yet, 2010 has been exciting in every respect. Professionally, I have had a wonderful year doing my dream job at EBRD – exactly the kind I spent months looking for. Compared to investment banking, EBRD is much more compatible with social life, diverse interests and a busy travel schedule. The work itself is fun, too. I love the sector I cover and have been blessed with interesting and rewarding projects, four of which were signed in 2010. In short, I have finally joined the ranks of happy employees – the few of us who look forward to coming to work every morning. Monday to Friday only, naturally.
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There were some GREAT travels this year


2010 has also been an outstanding year for travel. A year ago, I set myself a challenging target of visiting 20 countries within 12 months – which I have met comfortably. Within a week, Vietnam will become the 25th country in my 2010 travel calendar. Seven countries of 25 featured in my list for the first time, including Albania, Georgia and Iceland. I spent a total of 120 days travelling in 2010.

The horizons for my world discovery have expanded, too. After three years of focusing on Europe – in my defence, typically its less intuitive locations – I have finally broken out of the loop and resumed long-haul travel, including Mexico and the USA. Many thanks to everyone who has contributed to planning my trips and especially to those who found the time to meet me abroad. I am very lucky to have wonderful friends like you, in multiple parts of the world.

Increasingly more of my friends are dedicating their lives to professional photography. With respect to photographic achievements, 2010 was quieter for me than its predecessor. I have not won any photo contests and continue working on my photographic style and skill. I would like to thank many of you for serving as inspiration and sharing valuable tips! I never cease to admire your braveness and spirit for choosing photography as a career – something I doubt I could ever do myself.
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Riga, Latvia. "Shelter from the snow". Published by Photography Monthly's "The World of Photography" bookazine, Volume 1, Autumn 2010.


2010 recap: Winter

Let us start from the beginning though. I welcomed 2010 in my mother's quiet company in Riga (Latvia) – where the two of us raised our champagne not once but twice, to celebrate the New Year according to both Moscow and Riga time. Heavy snowfall covered the whole of Latvia in the following few days, creating the most wonderful winter mood. It had been a long while since I celebrated New Year in the Baltics, and it was a nostalgic occasion – if only a bit of a chilly one.

As my return to London brought little improvement in outdoor temperatures, I was soon off to Barcelona (Spain) for a well deserved snow-free weekend. Christmas decorations and festive spirit were still filling up this amazing city, where the sun always seems to be shining. I will never cease to wonder why on earth wouldn't every establishment in the world choose to headquarter itself in Barcelona.
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Crimson sunset in Barcelona, Spain


The seven weeks that followed marked a dark spot in my calendar. Some of you have already read a more detailed account of events in my blog. It was a very sad and confused period of my life, which one side of me wishes to forget and the other welcomes as an insightful lesson. I wish none of you, ever, to compromise your individuality for anyone's sake. True friends will accept you as you are – not try to rebuild your character to suit themselves.

2010 recap: Spring

Thankfully, the dark phase soon ended, and my life resumed at double speed. After a short business trip to snowed-in Ljubljana (Slovenia), I spent a week in Tirana (Albania) in early March. My discovery of Tirana was not in the least interrupted by pouring rain, insane traffic and – unsurprisingly – intense client meetings. Albania reminded me of both Italy and Greece, at that firmly retaining its distinct Balkan character. I just hope it will not rain as much on my consequent visits.
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Polytechnic University in Tirana, Albania


I flew back to London only to return to the Balkans a few hours later – this time to Zagreb (Croatia). Few of you will believe that the sole reason I came all the way to Croatia was to visit Vukovar. The infamous city was almost entirely destroyed during the war in former Yugoslavia in the early 1990s. Many buildings – including Vukovar's symbolic water tower – have not been renovated and remain standing as silent monuments to war. Seeing Vukovar was a very emotional experience for me. I recommend a visit to everyone.
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The water tower of Vukovar, Croatia


The flying marathon continued, as, within days, I went on to attend a signing ceremony for one of my projects in Riga and then spent two leisurely days in Aix-en-Provence (France). It was my first visit to the south of France. I fell in love with the picturesque mountain scenery of Provence, which once inspired the likes of Paul Cezanne.

By the time I returned to London, Easter was slowly beginning to loom ahead. I find it most special when Catholic and Orthodox Easter times overlap, and had planned in advance to spend my first Easter in an Orthodox country. My chosen destination – Bulgaria – turned out to be a success. No country in the world reminded me so vividly of Russia, my mother's homeland. During the four days in Bulgaria, I explored the capital Sofia, the ancient city of Plovdiv and the historic village of Koprivshtitsa – at all times enjoying the famed hospitality of the locals.
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Spring in Borisova Gradina park - Sofia, Bulgaria

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Troyan pottery in Plovdiv, Bulgaria


Frequent trips to the Baltics and the Balkans made me feel somewhat saturated by the repetitive surroundings of Eastern Europe. I was looking forward to a welcome change during my holiday in Hong Kong – when most unpredictable circumstances ruled otherwise. Eyjafjallajökull, Iceland's then unknown volcano, rose into fame overnight as it grounded thousands of flights for weeks – including my flight to Hong Kong. I am grateful to have been stranded in London instead of halfway across the world though. My cancelled holiday also meant that I could attend the only London concert of Croatia's magic maestro – Oliver Dragojević, whose music I continue to love and appreciate – in the company of fellow Balkan enthusiasts from EBRD. It was a fantastic night.

Eager to face the naughty volcano in person, I prayed for the ashes to clear away. Fortunately, Keflavik airport duly reopened in time, allowing me to spend incredible four days in Iceland. I had never before seen a country so fascinating, intriguing and unique – as well as boasting such stunning natural beauty. Shivers run down my spine as I remember Iceland's impressive volcanic terrain, multicolour landscape, steaming geysers, playful dolphins, plunging waterfalls, blissful Blue Lagoon and – of course! – Eyjafjallajökull itself. No, I did not miss my chance to take the trip to the foot of the volcano. Watching the eruption from a distance of only 4 km was among my highlights of 2010.
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Painted in watercolour... except it's a photo. Golden Circle, Iceland

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Forever famous! Eyjafjallajökull, Iceland


Finally, at the close of spring, I followed in the footsteps of the rest of the world's population and visited New York (USA). The city was exciting but just a little too overwhelming; I doubt I could ever live there permanently. A more relaxing occasion was my short trip to Washington, DC, exactly six years since I spent a summer studying at Georgetown University there. Memories were overflowing as I caught up with many special friends around the region. Sincere thanks to everyone who had time to see me! I hope it will not be too long before I re-visit DC.
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Sunset from Brooklyn Bridge, New York City, USA


Perhaps indirectly inspired by the volcano eruption, I gave up my seasonal Oyster pass in April and have been using the bicycle as main means of transportation around London ever since. London is not the world's friendliest city for cyclists, but even the few accidents I had have not led me to regret my choice. Yet. I avoid the Tube as much as possible, and my quality of life has seen major improvements.

2010 recap: Summer

Spring was coming to an end, but ahead was the summer – soon officially to become the most travel-active summer of my life. I began with a short trip to County Kerry (Ireland), where I had an unforgettable night watching the locals support the USA in FIFA World Cup, just because it happened to be England they were playing against. I am not known for supporting the USA in anything, but the atmosphere in that provincial country pub was simply indescribable.
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It isn't me, but still. County Kerry, Ireland


The month continued with a week-long training course organised by EBRD in sunny Cambridge (England). Despite an intense study programme – and thanks to fabulous weather, fun punting and festive graduation atmosphere – it was my most enjoyable non-holiday week of the year. I wish they would send me to Cambridge more often! Many thanks to the organisers and the fellow participants for the great time and company.
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Please please please can I go back to Cambridge?...


The end of June was marked by a weekend in Zurich (Switzerland), where I reunited with the friends I made during my 2004 student exchange programme in Kalmar (Sweden). Other than refreshing my German, I had an amazing time resurfacing the memories of what now seems such a distant period of my life. Many thanks to my fellow BBS-ers! I look forward to our reunion next year, and am hoping it will be in Stockholm.

July was likewise an active month for work and travel. I first refreshed my disappearing Greek during 10 wonderful days on the Aegean islands of Amorgos, Astypalea, Donoussa and Koufonissi. The intense blue of the Aegean fills up every one of the 2,000 pictures I brought back. I remain convinced that Greece rightfully holds its crown as Europe's top holiday destination. At least on those few days when there isn't a general strike.
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Ready, steady, go! Donoussa, Greece

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Blue as the skies in Amorgos, Greece


Shortly after returning to London, I was blessed with my most exotic business trip to date. Having started with some leisure in Florence (Italy), I flew out to Istanbul (Turkey) and Tbilisi (Georgia). The entire sequence took seven days, involving three very different countries, languages and cultures. I was particularly impressed by Georgia – its incredible food, highly educated population and rich history. Business took me all the way near the Turkish border where my colleagues and I visited the Cave City of Vardzia. I would love to return to Georgia for a longer stay.
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Two magnificent sunsets in two days: Istanbul, Turkey

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Two magnificent sunsets in two days: Tbilisi, Georgia


Last but not least came August – when I managed to spend every single weekend outside London. Many thanks to very special friends I saw in Prague (Czech Republic), Copenhagen (Denmark), Belgrade (Serbia) and Podgorica (Montenegro). I still smile as I remember my 13-hour spectacular (but exhausting) rail journey from Belgrade to Bar (Montenegro) – nobody said it was going to be easy, did they? It all seemed well worth it by the time I reached Dubrovnik (Croatia) – truly the jewel of the Adriatic.
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Belgrade to Bar by train: not for the faint-hearted

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Just a side street in pretty Copenhagen, Denmark

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A view from Dubrovnik's city walls: 2nd prize in EBRD Photo Competition


My absolute highlight of the summer, as well as the whole of 2010, was a visit to a destination not all of you will have heard of – the Faroe Islands. I was breathlessly enchanted by the Faroes' amazing scenery, so reminiscent of Norway and Ireland – combined with the incredible warmth and hospitality of the locals. Upon my return to London, I wrote a blog story about the Faroe Islands, which became an immediate online hit and attracted abundant commentary, including from the mother-in-law of Denmark's Prime Minister. I became famous, if only for one day! Needless to say that I have already booked my second visit to the Faroe Islands, planned for July 2011.
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Gjógv village, Eysturoy, Faroe Islands

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Tórshavn, Faroe Islands

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Near Funningur, Streymoy, Faroe Islands


2010 recap: Autumn

By September, I was getting tired of restless travelling and was looking forward to a break. Thankfully, there were only a handful of trips left. The autumn started with two consequent weekends in the country of perfect fjords and impressive mountain peaks – Norway – where I visited Bergen and Sognefjorden, as well as my much loved Lindseth family in Horten. Also in September, I started teaching myself Norwegian and will begin a proper course in January 2011. It would all be perfect – if only it didn't mean that my once existent Swedish (there are living witnesses) has all but turned into Norwegian, too. Tyvärr!
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Bryggen in Bergen, Norway


In October, I was ready for my main holiday of the year and travelled around Mexico for two weeks. I had the most amazing time. From paradise beaches of the Caribbean to luscious jungle of Chiapas, high-altitude colonial settlements, indigenous villages, archaeological sites and lively population hubs – Mexico was incredible. Many thanks to you who contributed with ideas and company. I highly recommend a holiday in Mexico to everyone.
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The Caribbean sunrise in Tulum, Mexico

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A local in San Cristobal, Mexico


Travel had been an exhausting kind of entertainment; but by mid-October, I had officially wrapped up my travel programme for the year. Finally I had time to meet my London friends – who were by then close to forgetting what I looked like. I also used the free time to carry out full service on my well-travelled camera and lenses. The £400+ bill clearly showed just how badly that was needed.

The highlight of November was my best friend Gintas's visit to London. His departure marked the end of my six-week non-flight mode, as I saw my mother in Riga for the last time in 2010. While in the Baltics, I also had an opportunity to explore the beautiful city of Tallinn (Estonia) – which I had passed at least 30 times on my way from Riga to Helsinki but never managed to see properly. Many thanks to everyone who took care of me there.
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Toomkirik, Tallinn, Estonia


All the exciting activities meant that I could not adequately prepare for what was to follow in early December – my CFA Level 1 exam. I remain convinced that I have failed; the incredible time I had in 2010 was well worth it though. Some things in life are certainly more important than studying.

Let's wait and see, it may well be... a perfect year

As I prepare to leave for my final trip of the year – to Vietnam – I would like to thank all my friends for making 2010 such an exciting year. I wish you a most wonderful Christmas and a great start of the New Year.

May 2011 be filled with interesting travels, the presence of dear people and rewarding professional tasks. I hope to see those of you whom I had no chance of seeing in 2010. Please keep in touch, and I promise to do the same.

Happy New Year!

(See a selection of my favourite travel images from 2010)

Sunday, 12 December 2010

A Letter to Santa

It is estimated that the Finnish Santa Claus (locally called Joulupukki, or "Yule goat" – no, seriously) has received over eight million letters to date. And as many as 600,000 letters continue arriving every year from over 150 countries.

Very few of us will have heard where exactly Santa lives – other than somewhere in Finland. He resides atop Korvatunturi, a fell in Eastern Lapland. Very kindly though, the Big Jolly Man uses the city of Rovaniemi near the Arctic Circle for receiving mail, making it easier for thousands of us to address our yearly Christmas pleas to a more or less central location. If one could call 66°30'N central, anyway.

I have never been too much of a Santa person. But this year I have decided to join the thousands of correspondents around the world and write a letter to Santa. I hope to make it a lasting tradition.

Before I begin though, I would like to acknowledge certain propaganda regarding Santa's TRUE residence. In particular, some unnamed nationalities (read: Danes) have been trying to convert the world into thinking that Santa really lives in Greenland. In a reconciliatory effort, certain third parties (read: a large Anglo-Saxon nation) are suggesting a North Pole compromise.

I need not say more. You should all be ashamed of yourselves. Go to Korvatunturi in person and better hope the REAL Santa forgives you.

Photo: www.santaclaus.fi

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A LETTER TO SANTA

Santa Claus
Santa Claus Village
FIN-96930
Arctic Circle
SUOMI/ FINLAND

Dear Santa,

How was your year? I know I have never written to you before, but I used to live in Finland, too.

I have been a good girl this year. Actually, I could have been better but I have been good enough. I have worked really hard at my job, visited my mama in Latvia regularly and made breakfast for my ex-boyfriend regularly, too. I have travelled a lot to see my friends abroad, but there are too many to see everyone. I have also been laughing a lot to cheer up the unhappy people around. Some just never seem to lose the gloomy look on their faces, don't you think? Unfortunately, I have been told I laugh too much. I guess I need to laugh less.

I know I could have been a better girl and it's okay if you don’t bring me anything this Christmas. But it would be great if you could please just do a few things. I realise you are not God, but maybe you two are related somehow.

First, I would really like to be promoted in spring. Could you mention this to HR? I have been an Analyst for four years now, and the title is starting to wear off. Do you remember a girl in the downstairs team that I used to work with in my previous job, too? She was a year below me then but has now joined my current work a position higher. How is this possible, Santa? Please, please, fix this quickly.

Then, I really want the Finnish national team to win the World Ice Hockey Championship in May. Could you please arrange that? I know you support them, too, but they haven't won since 1995. Don't you think it's a long time? You probably wonder why I am not asking for Latvia, but they never win anything, anyway.

Also, Santa, it would be great if you could convince my mama to visit me in London sometime. I have given up. She has not visited me in any country I have lived in. Not even in Finland, imagine! She says she is scared because she doesn't speak English. Maybe you could write her a letter, or something. She doesn't speak Finnish, either, but is very good with Google Translator.

Perhaps you could also call my boss so she'd send me on work rotation next year? I think it would be fun! I don’t know if I should ask for Belgrade, Sarajevo or Tbilisi, but I'm sure you could decide this for me. Could you? Oh, and I would prefer Krasnoyarsk in Russia to everything else (it is very pretty there, almost like in Lapland!), but better don't ask her that, she'll get emotional.

Yes, Santa, before I forget, could you also wire the brains of that cute guy so he would like me, too? I'm sure you know who I'm talking about. It's okay if he doesn't write every day, I promise to treat him well, anyway. Your dialects must be a bit different, but he speaks very good English, with the cutest accent in the world! Thank you, Santa!

I also wanted to ask for a new camera to take better pictures, but then I probably need to learn to use my old camera first. Maybe you could teach me? The pictures on your website look very professional. I'd love to see you in Finland for a lesson. One thing you could bring me this Christmas though is a tripod. I think I have chosen a perfect one, but it's very expensive. It would be so great, Santa!

And also, Santa, please tell my downstairs neighbour to stop playing the drums. I know he only does it occasionally and it's kinda festive, but it is annoying, anyway. Maybe you don't have to bring him any presents this year?

I think that's all. I hope this is not too difficult for you, dear Santa. If I think of more things, I will write you another letter.

Thank you very much and Merry Christmas! Hyvää Joulua!

Yours,

anjči

P.S. I just remembered, Santa, many of my girlfriends are having babies and seem to be having fun! I don't think I will become a mummy any time soon, but I'd love to be a godmother to a sweet little child. Could you ask one of my girlies to think of me when they are planning the baptism? Thank you so much, Santa, you're the best!

Wednesday, 8 December 2010

A sure way to fail your CFA exam

I took my CFA Level 1 exam last Saturday.

Thanks to all who cared to ask me how it went. I am lost for words as to how happy I am now that the exam is past. The thoughts about it firmly ruled my life for at least six months. The thoughts did. The studies? I wouldn't be so sure.

Let's preface this by saying that I did not choose to take my CFA exam. When my employer offered to sponsor it about a year ago, I genuinely embraced the idea with thanks. It seemed that December 4th, 2010 would never come. I had months to prepare.

The wake-up call came in June, when some colleagues and I attended a study programme in Cambridge designed to get our thoughts subtly directed towards the big December date. We received volumes of thick books and signed up for daily reminder emails. My CFA brothers-in-arms started asking about my study progress. Suddenly it did not look like a joke anymore – it was real. I urgently needed to study.

At which point I rioted. Had I not spent 5+ years of my life studying things I did not in the slightest need afterwards? Had I not wasted the supposedly most fun years crouching over books instead of going out and meeting cool people? Left and right, my female coursemates were fronting yearbook nominations for “Charming Smile” and “Most Desired”. I, however, was the chronic “Academic Guru” and “Miss Workaholic”. Thankyouverymuch; I would never make the same mistake again. Instead, I was going to be cool about the exam – cool to the point of failing it, if need be.

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Oh, Cambridge. So perfectly demotivating.


The early stages: no rush, no rush

The most difficult part of any study process is making that first move for the books. If you are seriously planning a fail mark, make sure to postpone that crucial moment for as long as possible. What do you do after receiving your CFA package in the mail? Correct – you spend a couple of months using the *unpacked* box as a foot stand. It probably fits very nicely under your desk and keeps your feet comfortably positioned for all sorts of other routine activities. In the end, you are so successful in convincing yourself the "foot stand" is real that you phone up the CFA institute and complain that your books had never even arrived. Unfortunately, you are soon disillusioned.

Since few of us are at home during mail delivery hours, you are most likely receiving your CFA books on the work address. Even if you get as far as unpacking them, taking the whole bundle home is a heavy ordeal. Do not worry though – you can always transfer the books home slowly – one by one. Not even a week will have passed before all the [still untouched and shiny] books are piled up neatly on your dinner table. By which point you probably need to start thinking about doing the same with your second CFA package. Because there is not one but two of them. If you ever get to that stage, of course.

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CFA books. Where to start?


So – now that you have brought most of the books home, one would think the studying should start. Wrong! It is still summer, and your holidays are in full swing. You make sure to use up the entire balance of your annual leave before year-end, embarking on 15 trips out of London between June and November. Overall, these amount to 60 days of absence. That's TWO months outside the UK in barely five, destinations covering anything from Mexico to Faroe Islands to Norway to Montenegro to Georgia to Greece, you name it. Needless to say that it is fun. As for the CFA exam – December is still ages away. Isn’t it?

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My highlight of the year. The Faroe Islands, not the CFA studies.


Post-holiday: the fun begins at home

Now imagine you are done with your year's holiday plan. The time is about mid-October, and your CFA books are still resting sleepily on your dinner table – by then covered in a thin layer of dust. As tempting as they look, you are not in a rush to open them just yet. After all, two months of studies may even give you enough time to pass. And oh gracious heavens, we surely don't want THAT to happen.

The sight of the books right in front of your nose is a rather miserable reminder though. You experience a momentary stroke of genius and hide them under your bed. A friend tells you putting the books directly under your pillow facilitates the learning process – but, since you are actually trying to fail here, you decide to skip that.

What to do with the free time in London? You dedicate the first three weeks to catching up with local friends. Remember that you have spent the past five months competing with Michael Palin for the world's most active traveller's title. You arrange a series of after-work drinks and dinners, fill up your weekends with social activities, roll back glamorously into London's exciting dating scene – and lose every passing thought as far as some dusty pile of books under your bed is concerned. Life has never seemed so good!

The finishing line: conscience awakes

The time is now approaching mid-November, and you still have not even touched the hapless CFA books. Your employer is probably suspecting all about your lagging discipline and arranges a week-long course with a CFA training consultancy – anything to get you motivated to study. Surely locking you up for a week with a dozen CFA soul mates will sort you out in no time.

Little do they know. Even in a dull rectangular training room somewhere in the forgotten corner of the City, there are far more interesting things to do than crack permutation formulas. The internet on your BlackBerry. The irresistibly cute guy behind you. Your neighbour's curly hair. The Remembrance Day poppy on your chest. The rugby match outside – you name it. You are anything but bored. The lecturer’s words fly right past your ears.

Finally – finally! – three weeks before the exam, you sort of half-open one of the books. The first glance confirms just how right your strategy to FAIL has been. You solemnly swear not to take Level 2 or Level 3. EVER. The people coming up with those mock questions must be one miserable bunch. Your hit rate on them is about 40 percent though – a little too encouraging for all the fun you've been having. You decide to wait another week and see what happens.

A week later, you are probably getting haunted by remorse. I should have studied all this time, you are telling to yourself – surely my employer would not be pleased by the extent of moral hazard going on? That's when you abandon your initial strategy and begin studying for real. You shake the dust off the books, skim them thoroughly and copy the most important concepts into a little notebook. You are finally being diligent – so diligent that a slight stroke of luck could even see you passing – passing the CFA Level 1 exam you have so religiously been trying to ignore.

Luckily, the improved morale proves to be short-lived. Looking at your calendar, you realise just how many events you have pre-booked months ago. Concerts, theatre plays, tennis matches, arts exhibitions – there is something happening almost every night. Not to mention the ever-escalating number of friends’ Christmas do's, year-end farewell drinks and birthday parties. Oh, and your best friend arrives for the MBA Banking Week in London. You decide to keep your priorities straight, very straight, as far as best friends are concerned. A secondary layer of dust starts building up on the CFA books, but you don’t really mind.

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Andy Murray vs. CFA, ladies and gentlemen. What would YOU choose?


Tim Henman, the idol of my teenage years. CFA? Forget it.


The final week

At last, only one week separates you and the EXAM. Clouds seem to be thickening overhead; the end is near. But many things can still happen in a week. You suddenly realise that Ryanair has rescheduled your flight home, originally planned for AFTER the CFA exam. Rather lucky, you think, as, instead of requesting a full refund, you transfer the trip to the weekend BEFORE the exam. Family is everything; mum will be totally pleased to have you two weeks earlier.

Riga turns out to be a blast. Your mum is pampering you restlessly and you gain a couple of kilos within barely a day. The rest of the time is spent sleeping, eating and drinking champagne – remember that you will not be seeing your mum on New Year’s Eve. And, since you are in Riga anyway, you might as well make a day trip to Tallinn. Make sure to have your CFA notes deposited in your luggage. Other than for a short-term conscience fix, opening them is however absolutely unnecessary.

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My Riga, so perfectly beautiful. Six days before the CFA exam.


By the time you have safely returned to London, lost the baby fat and recovered from a champagne overdose, the time is Wednesday. You are officially on study leave from work and begin panicking, but there is little to do at this stage. Another tennis match is scheduled for tonight, and you decide to cycle 6 miles to Royal Albert Hall rather than take the Tube – anything to avoid studying.

On Thursday, it would seem that little can prevent you from hitting the books properly. You only pop out of the house briefly to visit the gym and lock yourself up afterwards. As you try to concentrate, however, it suddenly hits you just how many interesting activities your flat offers during the working hours. You begin by baking a round of blueberry muffins. You then get your breadmaker labouring on a brand new recipe. After which you once again admire the beautiful view from your window and shoot galore. By the time you have packed your camera away, munched down the muffins and stocked the bread in the freezer, the day is over. Oh, and your head is still wonderfully CFA-free.

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The muffins, mmm


Just another loaf, and then I'll study. No, really.


One more dawn, one more day

Friday comes. The Friday before the exam. You need to be in good shape for tomorrow and visit the gym again. In the meantime, your colleagues continue bombarding you with emails, and you feel you absolutely HAVE TO stop by the office before returning home. Even when you eventually make it there, you find no peace – your neighbour is a keen drummer and regularly practises on Fridays. Undisturbed, you decide to counteract with some loud ex-Yugoslavian rock music instead. Let's see who wins.

A few hours later, the church bells outside are chiming 10pm and the neighbour finally surrenders. That's when you study for real, cursing yourself for not having been THIS responsible from the very beginning. Whatever happened to the former top student of the top business school in the Baltics?

In the best student traditions, you stay up for most of the night and show up at the exam brightly red-eyed and exhausted. You are allowed to unseal the exam books – the questions are embarrassingly easier than you had thought. Surely you have plenty of time. Your mind begins to wander, as do your eyes. You are positively surprised so many fine representatives of the opposite gender have nothing better to do on a Saturday than take that God-forsaken exam. After some rigorous thinking, you decide that their employers must be paying for them, too.

"It's time", you hear at last, "Please stop writing now". As the papers are being collected, you cast a few concluding glances – not at your answers (those are all wrong, anyway), but at the named cute individuals around. You wish you could exchange numbers with some of them. Telephone numbers, of course, not the number of degrees of freedom – you smile as you realise the exam is over. Finally over, at least for this year.

I took my CFA Level 1 exam last Saturday. And I have definitely failed it.

But boy, did I have fun preparing.

Monday, 6 December 2010

Finns, ferries and Tallinn

There is one thing an average Finn and I have in common.

Ask me if I have been to Tallinn, and I'll shrug in response. Isn't it obvious? A Latvian, I studied in Finland for two years. Of course I have been to Tallinn, the main transfer point from Riga to Helsinki. In fact, I have probably been there on no less than 30 occasions.

30 visits are no joke. You will probably ask me what there is to do and see in Tallinn. Surely I must know the city like the back of my hand.

I will think a little here – think and admit that I do not actually know much of Tallinn. Yes, there is the famous skyline that floats into view when approaching Tallinn from Helsinki by sea. Then there is the ferry terminal I have used far too many times to pay attention anymore. Oh, and a huge supermarket next to it. That's about all I'd typically remember – admittedly, not much at all.

What about that average Finn?

Now ask an average Finn the same question. Like me, they will shrug. OF COURSE they have been to Tallinn. Helsinki is less than 100 km away across the Gulf of Finland. Countless passenger ferries zoom back and forth between the two cities. One cannot walk down a backstreet in Helsinki without spotting a city break poster for Tallinn. Every self-respecting Finn seems to have visited Tallinn – and if not, is planning to do so soon.

Official statistics confirm the first impression. According to the port of Tallinn, 5.6 million sea passengers travelled to and from Helsinki in the year ending October 2010. This is more than the population of my entire country (Latvia) crossing the Gulf of Finland twice in a single year. Very impressive indeed.

The statistics from Finland likewise impress: nearly 75 percent of adult population of Southern Finland reportedly visited Tallinn at least once during the two years of research. As suspected, as many as 80 percent intended to visit Estonia in the next two years.

The Gulf of Finland: the longest crossing from Helsinki to Tallinn takes 3.3 hours


An average Finn and anjči: a comparison

And this is what I believe an average Finn and I have in common: we have both made multiple trips to Tallinn without having in fact seen much of the city. Our knowledge of Tallinn's ferry terminal may be second to none, but we didn't really bother venturing too far afield. Why? Because everything we came for was around the port area. There was no burning need to go anywhere else.

Which in turn brings us to an important difference. If for me Tallinn meant little more than an obstacle on the way from Riga to Helsinki, most Finns come to the Estonian capital for another reason: to buy cheaper booze. Apparently as many as 80 percent of Finnish visitors to Tallinn purchase alcohol to bring home.

To be honest, few would need official estimates here; it is enough to watch a queue to the next Helsinki-bound ferry in Tallinn. Most passengers will be carrying at least a crate of beer each; some will complement with another crateful of vodka. The most far-sighted types will be rolling a small trolley loaded with an alcoholic pick'n'mix. All you can carry, kiitos.

Finland and alcohol

Over the two years of studies, I had a chance to get to know Finland at least to some extent. The country is infamous for its binge drinking culture. With France and Italy, Finland ranks among the highest alcohol consuming European nations.

Unlike French and Italians, however, Finns are not so much into sipping wine with their meals in a civilised manner. They may not even consume alcohol every day – but when they do, they take it very seriously indeed, drinking in substantially larger quantities per sitting and preferring harder liquor to wine and beer. Famously high price levels in Finland do not help. Helsinki consistently ranks among the most expensive cities in the EU where alcohol prices compare particularly unfavourably.

Finland has tried to reduce its alcohol prices before. Estonia's EU membership in 2004 meant the loosening of alcohol quotas previously imposed on Finnish visitors. In fear of losing domestic sales, Finnish authorities initially decreased their alcohol taxes by up to a third, depending on the type of alcohol.

The cut proved to be a double-edged sword however, as Finns simply consumed more alcohol – both domestic and that imported from Estonia. The social cost of increased alcohol consumption was enormous as alcohol-related problems became the most common cause of death among Finnish people of working age in 2005. Alcohol-induced crime in Finland shot to record levels; overnight shelters for drinkers collected off the streets hit their capacity limits. Tax reduction was not the solution.

Caught between budgetary and health concerns, Finnish authorities eventually admitted defeat and re-raised alcohol taxes, albeit not to the pre-2004 levels. Finnish visitors continue flocking to Estonia – which is too dependent on alcohol revenue to fight its own severe drinking problems, let alone those of Finland.

Now ask me again

This post was initially meant to be a lament about having never properly seen the beautiful city of Tallinn. As well as a complaint about my multiple trips with the slowest and the cheapest passenger ferry between Tallinn and Helsinki (read: Eckerö Line). I was going to conclude it all by committing to come to Tallinn properly one day. Come properly by air or land and not even look in the direction of the passenger port. Enough is enough.

But I failed to write such a post. After starting the first draft, I suddenly felt the urge to rectify the situation and come to Tallinn straight away instead. My trademark is booking trips months in advance, but I, too, can be spontaneous sometimes.

Said and done: last weekend, I landed in Riga and was on a bus to Tallinn within a matter of hours. I may not have stayed that long, but the city was really everything I had hoped it to be. As expected, the passenger port was not exactly a must-see.

And just for the record, I didn't buy any booze.

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Panoramic Tallinn


Toomkirik, Tallinn


Panoramic Tallinn


Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Tallinn


Old Town, Tallinn


Oleviste kirik, Tallinn


(View the full Tallinn set on Flickr here)