Wednesday, 29 February 2012

Wanted: A perfect (cricket) mate

A big fat envelope pushed itself through a mail slot in my door and fell heavily onto the floor.

I picked it up. Very few people in this world know my home address; as a result, most mail that actually arrives at my home address usually ends up in one of two varieties: (a) junk mail or (b) bills. Big fat envelopes containing either (or, God forbid, a combination of both) can therefore hardly be considered a treat. And – most certainly – are not something one would like dropped at their feet on a Saturday morning.

So, reluctantly, I picked up the envelope and opened it to see which of the two unwelcome mail varieties ended up at my doorstep this time.

But it was my lucky day. As if by magic, my mood switched to festive. I started off by dancing the entire length of my long corridor to the living room, where the dancing got even wilder as the floor shook and the many artefacts of my exotic trips flew off their carefully planned positions on the big bookcase. I then danced back into the bedroom, where the impromptu routine finally ran itself out of breath. Gasping like an old horse, I collapsed on the bed and stared at the glossy papers my hands were still firmly clutching – the very contents of the notorious envelope I had opened a few minutes ago.

"Lord's", it read, "The home of cricket".

No junk or bills, for a change

Earlier this year, I joined a public tickets ballot to see a cricket match – which was not just any cricket match, ladies and gentlemen, but a One Day International (ODI) match between England and South Africa, to be held at England's most celebrated cricket ground, the legendary Lord's in St. John’s Wood in London.

And guess what? My application won! I got allocated two tickets to see a real cricket match on the premises where the noblest of games was, well, at home. For once, an unsolicited envelope on my doorstep happened to contain something useful – a pair of crispy cricket tickets with a laconic note that my "application has been successful". Well thanks, I’d figured.

Now, I recognise that very few of you will go as far as share my excitement. In fact, some will probably open a new tab in their browser and double check what cricket actually is. When I happen to mention cricket to my Russian office mate, for example, all he ever reacts with is an indifferent "that’s the same thing as croquet, right?" Well, not exactly, darling. Trust me though – it's a fun game.

I glanced at the tickets again. There were two of them. I suddenly remembered that applying for one ticket was not possible; since I never thought my application would go through though, I didn’t blink an eye and requested two instead.

And so I ended up with a spare ticket. Which meant that I had better start thinking which lucky candidate to invite along to share a blissful September Sunday in the company of yours truly, sipping bubbly drinks and watching men in bright “pyjamas” bowl and bat balls back and forth on a world-famous pitch.


A successful candidate will have

The task on my hands – finding a perfect cricket mate – admittedly wasn’t an easy one. ODI matches in cricket typically last for exactly as long as their name implies: a day, or at least eight hours. I’d be spending a whole day in the company of just one person. This needed a careful selection process. Who’d make a perfect cricket mate?

First, I thought, he – of course it’d be a HE – would need to understand the game. On my first ever live cricket match, I would really benefit from some educated commentary. Day to day, I am amazed by how many of my friends claim that cricket rules are “beyond” their understanding. I won’t pretend that I follow every single happening on the field – but seriously, people, basic rules of cricket are ordinarily understood by 6-year-olds here in England, the country where so many of us have the pleasure of residing. It can’t be that bad.

I then imagined how great it would be if my future cricket mate actually came from a cricket playing nation. There aren’t that many: only 10 countries are currently full members of the International Cricket Council, and a mere handful of others are decent enough to compete with dignity. Also, ideally, my companion would have played more or less professionally himself, for at least a few years. Which meant that he had to be quite fit, equipped with a good reaction and value teamwork over personal stardom – the qualities (as I am sure you will all agree) sported by each and every cricketer.

Going over to personality traits, a perfect cricket mate would have to be a good conversationalist. I mean, if we are really going to stick together side by side for EIGHT hours, he better know more than just blunt basics of entertainment. The options here are endless – for example, he could be well-travelled and share stories from his trips. Or have an exciting (read: non-banking, non-legal) profession and tell me all about that. Or, better still, just have the ability to talk knowledgeably – no annoying blabber, please – about everything in the world at pretty much the same time. Without talking too much, of course. And knowing EXACTLY when to stop. Easy, right?

Lose that cigarette. Now.

One thing for sure though: he could never be a smoker. While smoking as such is not allowed at Lord’s anyway, I’d hate to share immediate space with someone whose all thoughts would be outside the venue, dying for a fag. An overnight flight to Singapore with an obvious smoker from Athens was bad enough and is still as vivid in my memory as it was five years ago. No smell in the world is worse than cigarette smoke; between us, a smoking habit might even be my show-stopper of choice. That’s right – rather than dumping anjči outright, just pick up smoking and everyone will go their separate ways and live happily ever after, no questions asked.

But I digress. Already wondering if I had taken the cricket mate selection a little too far, I suddenly thought he’d have to be decently looking and nicely dressed, too. Sitting there at Lord’s in my Sunday finest, I’d most certainly have a right to expect the man next to me to make at least a loose match with my gorgeous self.

Here I turned to the mirror and winked at my reflection. You’re worth it, baby.

Which doesn’t exactly leave an overwhelming choice

And so I had my list. A fit, non-smoking cricket follower (actual players preferred) from a cricket playing nation, with good looks and a decent taste in clothes, comfortable to hold an entertaining, hour-long conversation as well as keep quiet when necessary and make every effort for this silence not to be awkward.

At which point I started getting somewhat concerned. Even in my admittedly wide social pool, there was precisely ONE person that could fit all of the above criteria. He was a fun talker, hot enough to make water boil with one look (well, sort of), always well-dressed and never even to have touched a cigarette – with an added benefit of being a teetotaller. Oh, and did I mention, an avid cricketer, too? As if it was even necessary at this point. I may have just found that perfect cricket mate. Bingo!

Except my seemingly flawless candidate had one tiny problem. He wasn’t a Londoner. In fact, he was not even living in the UK but 5.5 time zones away, in the faraway Delhi – the capital of one billion people’s cricket obsessed nation who’d certainly have no problem joining me at Lord’s – if only they were in London.

Which elegantly brought me to one final criterion I had previously forgotten: a perfect companion would need to be based locally. A long-distance cricket match? I don’t think so.

I looked at the tickets again – and smiled. I didn’t have to take this so seriously. September was still ages away. Perfect cricket mates might have been lining up round the corner, ready to fight for that spare piece of paper in my hand. And, above everything else, it wasn’t a life partner I was running the search for, after all – but a mere cricket buddy for a day.

Or was it?..

Monday, 27 February 2012

India in Pictures: Delhi and Rajasthan

Writing a blog about India has to be close to impossible. Where do you even start? The country is so overwhelming, intense, contrasting, shocking, fascinating – that no words in the world would ever do it justice. Not even to mention so much has been written about India already.

When I scroll through my photos of India, multiple memories spring to mind. I remember India’s monumental temples where walls are densely covered in exuberant handiwork and free roaming monkeys are as normal as worshippers and tourists. I remember the hectic, traffic besieged Delhi – its massive malls in well-off southern neighbourhoods clashing decidedly with simple Old Delhi street markets. I remember the variety of colour – Jaipur in pink, Jodhpur in blue and Udaipur in hazy white thanks to all its lakes. Above all, I remember the people – old and young, male and female, villagers and urbanites – running up to me to have their picture taken, laughing excitedly seeing themselves on camera, queuing with their phones to take a photo of me, asking where I come from – showing ceaseless interest towards a foreign visitor.

I may have only spent 10 days in India – all of them in Delhi and Rajasthan – but my memories are countless. I feel the best way to reflect them in this blog would be in pictures: starting from the beginning of my trip, in Delhi, and moving on gradually through the state of Rajasthan – to Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur – before eventually heading back.

I hope you will enjoy this short photographic journey through a fraction of an amazing country that is India.


~~~~~~~

25 December 2011: Delhi airport is so foggy that I barely notice we touch the ground. It is my only full day in India’s capital city; I rush through Karol Bagh, Paharganj, Connaught Place, Hauz Khas village and Vasant Kunj malls – completely missing out on Delhi’s touristic sights yet greatly enjoying the company of local friends. Absolute highlight? Watching “Don 2” movie starring Shah Rukh Khan on a most atypical Christmas Day ever ~ Delhi

~~~~~~~






~~~~~~~

26 December 2011: My train – my first Indian train ride! – is not until noon, and I take the chance to explore Karol Bagh in the early hours before escaping to Old Delhi for a quick rush through Chawri street market. The homeless are burning waste and wearing blankets to keep warm in Delhi’s notorious winter chill; chai vendor I finally find at 6am in a secluded backstreet is literally flooded with customers. Cows roaming freely through the streets, wildly beeping auto-rickshaws, locals curiously eyeing me and my camera – everything blends into the very Indian experience I had counted on before coming here ~ Delhi

~~~~~~~







~~~~~~~

26 December 2011: The Old Delhi Train Station is a world of its own. People are filling up every inch of the platform when my train pulls in – slowly enough to allow the faster passengers to hop on while it is still in motion and secure better seats. The few tourists I see will certainly not be travelling anywhere near me: for my seat is in the lowest “commoners” class, one of the Sleeper cars. Despite my worst expectations, the experience turns out rather positive, and the five hours to Jaipur fly quickly by. Having reached my destination, I wander through Rajasthan’s largest city in a search of an “authentic” lassi, end up meeting a strange local guru who tells me the details of my past life I had long forgotten myself; another utmostly bizarre day in India ~ Jaipur

~~~~~~~






~~~~~~~

27 December 2011: On my first full day in the “Pink City”, I hire an auto-rickshaw and explore Jaipur’s numerous visitor attractions: City Palace, Amber Fort, Jal Mahal and Galta Temple – also paying quick visits to a local fabric factory, elephant “house” and Chacha aka the city’s “best chai brewer”. A lot of time is spent dragging through Jaipur’s insane traffic, but I don’t mind: the auto-rickshaw provides an excellent cover for candid street shots ~ Jaipur

~~~~~~~
























~~~~~~~

28 December 2011: The exploration of Jaipur continues at a much slower pace: in the morning, the quirky guru friend of mine takes me to his astrologist – who “predicts” I will have two children and live happily ever after. Relieved (as one would be after hearing this), I head to the Royal Gaitor complex and revisit Galta Temple before catching an evening train to Jodhpur ~ Jaipur

~~~~~~~
















~~~~~~~

29 December 2011: Smaller Jodhpur wins me over immediately. I could spend hours getting lost in the narrow streets of the Old Town, amid the blue passageways and eye-catching multicolour doors – but cannot miss the Mehrangarh Fort towering majestically over the “Blue City”. In the evening, I join a Gujarati family on a tour to the so-called Bishnoi villages – where peacocks and deer are pacing around undisturbed, locals use open fire to make food and goatherds outnumber cars. Time here seems to have stood still for decades ~ Jodhpur

~~~~~~~


































~~~~~~~

30 December 2011: There isn’t any time to spare, and I leave for the final stop of my short discovery of India – Udaipur, the “Lake City”. My driver Usman and I cover the distance of 270 km in a whopping 10 hours – so much there is to see on the way. Highlights include Ranakpur Jain Temple (which, many say, is the most impressive of all Jain temples), the massive Kumbhalgarh Fort and, well, endless chai stops. Life has never seemed sweeter ~ Jodhpur to Udaipur

~~~~~~~















~~~~~~~

31 December 2011: On the last day of 2011, my newly acquired friend Usman volunteers to show me the best parts of Udaipur and its surroundings. We spend the whole day on the road – wandering, exploring, singing along to Hindi tunes and laughing – before settling in Usman’s family home in the company of his wife and two sons over a wonderful meal of biryani. I end what has been a FANTASTIC year on the rooftop of my hotel, watching the fireworks and wishing that 2012 may be at least half as exciting as its predecessor. Happy New Year, India! Happy New Year, world ~ Udaipur

~~~~~~~





















~~~~~~~

1 January 2012: Everyone is still asleep when I return to the streets of Udaipur for some leisurely wandering. What beats enjoying city life from within – not really rushing anywhere, enjoying every set of bangles in the best hidden stall you could find, taking time to talk to locals, playing cricket with smiley children and topping it all with some sweet chai? Oh, and I manage to stop by Udaipur’s magnificent City Palace for some tourist action, too. Come 6pm, and I catch my overnight train back to Delhi – the first day of 2012 has certainly been a success ~ Udaipur

~~~~~~~




















It goes without saying that India exceeded every one of my expectations. I can’t wait to be going back… and wait, I am soon! Stay tuned for my imminent visit to Mumbai in the beginning of March. As well as – possibly, hopefully – a visit to Southern India in the next 12 months.

~~~~~~~

View my photos of India on Flickr: Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur